"A lot of people from other parts of the world are going to be surprised when they enter heaven and find that God entertains himself with mariachi music." James A. Michener-Mexico
What better time than right now to discuss the peso, and how it affects travelers in Mexico. Friends ask me "What's your secret?" for navigating through the Mexican system of finances. Since I left for an extended stay right in the midst of a massive peso devaluation, maybe I can share some thoughts that I have developed during my years of travel in Mexico.
We travelers think in terms of "Dollars". It can't be helped. It's like dreaming in English. The big problem with doing business with dollars in Mexico is that everything has to be converted back to pesos. It is far easier to carry a tiny solar-powered hand calculator and do your "mental" transactions with it, so that you can better comprehend your perspective (dollars) on any particular item.
Let's say that I find a wonderful hammock and the vendor only wants $150.00 (new pesos). I'll whip out my calculator and divide the hundred and fifty by the current exchange rate of pesos per dollar (el tipo de cambio). On Christmas day, the peso had devalued from 3.45 to 1, all the way down to 4.8 to 1. By current standards that hammock would cost me $31.25. Just a week earlier, at 3.45 pesos per dollar the cost would have been $43.47. A savings of $12.22. If the hammock was worth the higher figure last week, it's a sure bet that I'll be swinging in it before supper.
Let's jump right into the middle of a quagmire. Let's say that I had a hundred dollar bill,
2-
and that I pulled into a Pemex station and said "Lleno por favor" (full please). The attendant promptly fills the tank with a hundred and ninety Nuevos Pesos worth of gasoline, grabs my c-note and vanishes. As I nervously await his return with my change, I happen to note that Magna Sin gasoline is selling for $1.335 Nuevo Pesos per liter. The attendant suddenly returns and peels off a bunch of fifty peso notes and hands me a small mound of coins. If I am without a calculator, I might be up-a-creek (sin remos).
I recently quipped to a friend that when American currency features portraits of dead Mexican heroes on it, I'll start taking American dollars to Mexico.
I exchanged only a couple of weeks worth of dollars for pesos at the border. This will buy all of my food, fuel and other essentials. The rest of my money has been retained as travelers checks and credit cards. I know that Mexico will not raise prices dramatically because real people work for real wages there. They would starve. The primary reason to retain my assets in dollars is to realize any further gains that may be realized by further peso devaluations. Heck, if the peso tumbles to 12 to 1, a gallon of gas would sell for the equivalent of .37 cents a gallon! By using pesos and remembering that 1.335 pesos buys one liter, I can forget all of that other nonsense. If the cost of a liter increases, then I'll get the calculator back out. If a beach camp sends a guy around to collect for a day's rent, and he wants nine pesos, I already know that it is more then the seven pesos that they were asking last year. The same thing holds true with the ferry system, If Sematur (private ferry owner) raised their prices by twenty percent in pesos, they would be facing an angry Mexican mob. Rates for the ferries were set in April of 1995, and are 30% less then lst year. It helps to remember that Mexico was invented by Mexicans for Mexicans!
Travel agents and tourism boards trumpet the news: Mexico is a bargain right now. And it's true. The plunge of the peso has made vacationing, traveling and buying south of the border seem like a steal. Well, it is a steal.
As Mexico struggles through its economic adjustments over the next year, those with a fistful of dollars can and should head south to reap the benefits, whether for a day, a weekend or a full-fledged vacation. And savvy travelers, who also know how to play the peso game, can sock away substantial added savings while having fun and helping Mexico get back on its feet.
Whether you're heading for Cancun or Cabo or simply crossing the border for a day, here are some tips that will stretch your already powerful bucks until they seem almost elastic.
First, leave your bucks behind. Change your money into pesos immediately before or after entering Mexico, if possible, and deal exclusively in pesos during your entire stay. The reason is simple. While hotels, restaurants and shops in all major tourist areas accept dollars, all will be offering differing exchange rates for goods and services.
For example, the blanket seller on the street may exchange 4.5 pesos for your dollar; a
3-
restaurant five pesos per dollar; the hotel 5.5. These might all sound great compared to the exchange rates of six months ago. But, it you purchased your pesos at a 6 to 1 exchange rate just before entering Mexico, and use those to pay expenses across the board, suddenly everything costs significantly less than the bargains your dollars would have bought.
If driving into Mexico, the reason to exchange your money on the U.S. side of the border is also simple economics. Border-area money exchanges are extremely competitive. Numerous businesses operate within the same small geographic area, and rates change by the hour. Generally, these are the best rates available anywhere.
If flying further south or flying directly into the interior of Mexico, your next best bet for top rates will be exchange booths near major hotels and in tourist areas. These are also forced into tight competition. If no money exchanges exist in the town you are visiting, use a local bank as the next best option. Exchange booths in airports, while convenient, usually don't offer the most competitive rates because they rely on impulse traffic and a seemingly captive market.
For the best rates, a general rule of thumb applies: Exchange dollars for pesos at establishments that are in the money-exchange business full-time because stiffer competition keeps their margins low. Your Mexican hotel, restaurant and shopkeeper aren't full-time money changers, and, for their trouble, will try to make whatever profits on exchanges the market will bear. Similarly, your back-home bank, travel service or travel club cannot provide the best rates for the same reason.
Once in Mexico, ask to have all prices for purchases and meals quoted in pesos. Don't just accept a dollar price, then mentally change it into pesos and hand over the money. While businesses and mercados in heavily touristed areas may automatically post prices in dollars (for example, that liquor store right next to your hotel), the equivalent peso price will usually be less. Mexican hotels have fixed room rates in pesos. Restaurants have menus written in pesos. Ask for them. You'll be surprised at the differences.
This does mean that you will be paying for your vacation or day trip across the border in cash instead of putting it on plastic, but there's a hidden danger to south-of-the-border credit card use that's rarely publicized. Many merchants, restaurants and hotels automatically add a six percent surcharge to your bill simply because it takes them so long to be reimbursed by the credit card company. You won't know about the added expense until it shows up later on your statement. Whenever planning to use plastic in Mexico, ask about a surcharge first.
To increase your peso saving even more, exercise your sense of adventure and add to your cultural experience by getting off the main drag to shop and eat. Just a block or two from the tourist strip in any town, you'll find much the same merchandise at shops that don't cater exclusively to the come-and-go-crowd. Prices will be lower.
Restaurants away from the English-only ghettos surrounding major hotels will often offer more food for your money, more authentic food and at a cost that will make you feel like a bandido. And, by all means, eat on the street if your comfort level allows. Some of Mexico's
4-
tastiest treats are found at those crowded street-corner stands, and the same sizzling, heaped taco that cost 70 cents last December was just 35 cents at the time of this writing--if paid in pesos.
Are we taking advantage? No. It's unfortunate that Mexico's misfortunes should become an opportunity for others, but tourist dollars will help, not hinder, the recovery of our friend and neighbor. And, how sweet it is to save while lending a hand to help.
HOW TO NAVIGATE A MONEY EXCHANGE
....Two numbers are always advertised at money exchanges: a buy and a sell figure. The buy number is the lower of the two and the one you want. Look for the highest rate on this figure.
....Always ask if there's a commission. If the answer is yes, go elsewhere.
....If driving into Mexico, the best exchange rates will be found within a few blocks of the border. Cruise the area just north of the border, and check the rate signs on the outside of the numerous money exchanges -- often small, free-standing buildings.
....Money exchange rates on both sides of the border will always be most competitive during Mexican banking hours, 9 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. Purchase your pesos then, if possible.
If you're heading into the Sea of Cortes, you'd better button down your chin strap because fishing has gone combat-style with everything from gorilla tuna to blue marlin, "on the chew."
My fax has been absolutely smoking lately. Apparently, the big word is that Clarion-sized tuna have moved into the Cabo and Cape areas. Larry Edwards at Cortez Yacht Charters in Cabo San Lucas, pinpointed schools of yellowfin running with the porpoise 18 miles off of San Jose. These fish are "da kine", sushi freight trains with no brakes. Fish are going 120 to 195 pounds and, I'll tell you what, I've fought big tuna and big marlin. I'll take a 200 pound tuna over a 400 pound marlin any day of the week. On a stand-up rig, there's no comparison! Think about it. You hear of 500 to 1000 pound marlin relatively regularly. Guys spend their whole lifetime questing for the mythical "holy grail" yellowfin that will someday top the 400 pound mark. It has NEVER been done on rod and reel.
My buddy, Larry Burson of the Jig Stop in Dana, California books trips for Victor's Pangas right there at Palmilla at ground zero. Larry says these tuna are the largest they have ever weighted for this area. He charts the "hot spot" about 12-15 miles off Palmilla Point with his boat racking yellowfin in the 87 to 160 pound class. Looks like the tuna, however, range from Chileno to San Jose and then up to Las Frailes as I'm getting reports from Hotel Bahia Las Frailes that some of their boats have found tuna 8 miles off the beach there on the East Cape. Dr. Matt Sciaroni and his buddy, Jeff Rogers, both from Fresno, California fished that hotel in early July and had a fairly "typical outing" catching and releasing numerous fish over four days including two striped marlin' one sailfish, 30 dorado, and an 80 pound yellowfin tuna that tore the heck out
5-
of the doctor for four hours on a light line.
Tuna feathers are the ticket with no particular colors dominating the bite. The bonus to using the smaller tuna feathers is that larger schools of dorado from 10 to 40 pounds have moved into the same areas. Counts of 7-10 mahi per boat have not been uncommon for boats fishing the San Luis and Iman Banks. Oh, by the way, if you're trolling the San Luis Bank, consider wire or using Marauders. It seems a school of wahoo have taken up residence on the bank regularly severing mono leaders. However, several fish in the 30-50 pound category have made it to the fish box.
As for billfish, the wide open bite we expected earlier this year, never really materialized, but there's still fish-o-plenty out there. Striped marlin from Cabo to Cerralvo Island are scattered and ready to go with a smattering of "big blues" also in those same areas. The largest blue lately has been a 520 pounder taken by Jude Correa of Fountain Valley, Ca. Dropped back baits have been the most successful. Unfortunately, the availability of bait, whether sardinias, mullet, caballito or mackerel has been hit or miss.
In the Midriff Islands, Tony Reyes' boats have been slamming home the hooks with tonnage on the yellowtail, cabrilla, and big squid. There were no big grouper on their recent trip, but "ripped lips" on fish ranging from 8 to 50 pounds with lots of releases. Bait and weather were all accommodating.
By the way, I came across a super product that I just have to pass along. Fishing inventor, Ron Sculatti, and his buddies were dozing while trolling the East Cape awhile back. Suddenly, they were jolted from sleep when all the clickers on their rods went off simultaneously. Decking the fish, someone commented about what a great "wake up" they had. Well, would you know. They put together a gorgeous alarm clock that literally screams at you as a clicker goes off and someone yells "FISH ON!" Guaranteed to get you leaping out of the rack! The quartz timepiece is housed in a beautiful wooden and brass antique Peetz salmon reel. You have to hear this thing and it's beautiful enough to put on a fireplace mantle. Totally a unique item. If you're interested, Ron has them through his company, Reel Time, at 1-800-Reel-Time.
Tight lines everyone. I'm always looking for info. Just give a tug at (805) 237-1122.
Guadalajara is pure magic. It is a harmonious blend of old and new that works in a contemporary way. It has all the features of a modern metropolis, yet there is still a gracious country atmosphere. Imposing colonial buildings stand beside soaring glass and steel structures. Horse-drawn carriages share broad avenues with the latest model cars. Acres of beautiful parks and flowering gardens make big city congestion seem remote. Though it is Mexico's second largest city and an important commercial center, the air is fresh and the pace is slow.
Residents are called "Tapatios", and Guadalajara is home of several thoroughly Mexican
6-
phenomena: tequila, charros, mariachis, and the "Jarabe tapatio" (Mexican hat dance).
The city has played an important role in the history of the country, both during the colonial era and in the fight for independence. You can discover traces of its rich history in walks around town.
Few cities of this size and importance offer visitors such a wide variety of things to see and do. The climate is ideal for sports, and you can keep a suntan going year 'round.
Guadalajara is also a center of culture and education. Large numbers of North Americans attend the universities and also retire in the area.
This is a city that truly has something for everyone, a city that even country folk love!
-.-.-.THE LAYOUT
The first glance at a map might overwhelm you, but getting oriented is relatively easy. You can walk around the major sights, shops and restaurants in most sections of town.
There are four major sections: Libertad, where the public market, the bullring and the Plaza de los Mariachis are located; Juarez, which encompasses Plaza del Sol and the downtown area; Hildalgo, an upscale residential section with beautiful shops and restaurants and Reforma, where the Sports Coliseum is located. Chapultepec is another action packed zone where many chic shops and restaurants are located.
The most historic area is downtown around the Cathedral and its four beautiful plazas lined with imposing buildings. Plaza de Armas with its graceful bandstand is most photogenic of all. Restored Plaza Tapatia, now a pedestrian mall, the Regional Museum, the Government Place and historic Degollado Theatre are all within easy walking distance.
Many of the major hotels and shopping spots are located on or near the broad Avenida Lopez Mateos between the Minerva Circle and the Holiday Inn. Plaza del Sol Shopping Center is across from the Hyatt Regency Hotel.
Tiaquepaque and Tonala are a 20-25 minute ride away.
.-.-.-ACCOMMODATIONS
There is a myriad of hotels in all categories and price ranges. Generally, visitors choose four-to five-star or deluxe properties located about ten minutes away from the downtown area. Exelaris Hyatt Regency, Fiesta Americana, Camino Real and Holiday Inn are among them. The Hotel El Tapatio, a fifteen minute ride away, is a self-contained, sports-oriented resort with a plush country club atmosphere. Businessmen like midtown hotels such as Aranzazu and the Fenix. Downtown rates are lower.
.-.-.-.-HOW TO GET AROUND
You'll find everything from smooth, broad avenues to narrow, cobblestone streets. The greater Guadalajara area is quite spread out and includes Zapopan as well as Tiaquepaque. Distances between major sightseeing and shopping areas tend to be long, so allow plenty of travel
7-
time between points, especially at the 1:00-300 p.m. and 7:00-8:00 p.m. rush hours.
The best way to get around is by taxi, especially if you're on a short visit. "Sitios" (taxi stands) are usually located in or near major tourist hotel areas. Rates are reasonable. Taxis charge about US $8-$9 per hour to wait.
Public buses run from the center to to the Hotel Zone and out to Tiaquepaque, but schedules as well as stops change frequently.
Major hotels have car-rental agencies. A car with automatic transmission costs about US $55-$60 per day.
If you want to enjoy the romance of days gone by, hire a "calandria" (horse-drawn carriage) to see the beautiful buildings or tour the fountains in the park. Drivers charge approximately 1,000 pesos per hour. Set the price before you start out.
.-.-.-.-SPORTS
Guadalajara is a sports capital, bar none. Few big cities offer as many sports facilities. Spring-like year-round temperatures have made it the golf and tennis capital of the country and it has been an equestrian center for centuries.
There are four major golf clubs. Three of them -- Santa Anita, San Isidro and Club Atlas -- are open to visitors.
Tennis courts abound. Major hotels have courts where you can play all day and into the night. Hotel El Tapatio is a true tennis center that offers clinics and other special events. The golf clubs also have courts.
Horses can be rented at Hotel El Tapatio. The Charros, famous Mexican gentlemen equestrians originated in Guadalajara. You can watch them perform rodeo feats at Lienzo Charro near the State Handicrafts Store or at Union Ganadera.
Hunting expeditions can be arranged through travel agents. If you feel like waterskiing, go out to Lake Chapala. There are several places to bowl and play squash in town.
If you need to soothe sore muscles, find a place with thermal waters, such as Rio Caliente.
There are also plenty of spectator sports. You can watch bull fighting at Plaza Monumental or Plaza Progreso. December-April is the season. Boxing matches take place at the Arena Coliseo. Soccer games are played at the University of Guadalajara and Jalisco stadium.
.-.-.-.-SHOPPING
Shopping in Guadalajara isn't good, it's sensational! This is the best place in the country to shop, especially if you're decorating a home. It's also one of the only places where you can do major shopping on Sunday. Decorating handicrafts with contemporary flair are best buys. Clothing and accessories run a close second.
You can choose to shop in everything from a chic boutique to a public market. Downtown Libertad is one of the largest open markets in the country, sprawling over several city blocks.
8-
Souvenirs, paper flowers, ceramics and a host of other treasures are crammed into clean stalls arranged in sections. Take time to bargain for better prices and you'll have more fun.
Sleek, modern shopping malls are among the biggest and the best in Latin America. Plaza del Sol across from the Hyatt is one of the largest. Plaza Mexico, a short ride away, is top-of-the-line. Plaza Patria is also good. The Hyatt Regency Hotel has an air conditioned two-story mall across from the Plaza del Sol.
You can sightsee and shop simultaneously downtown. Modern department stores such as Paris Londres, Suburbia and Chalita (all have Sunday schedules) are scattered among colonial buildings near the main square. "Shoe Street", Esteban Alatorre, is in the old part of town. Other great boutiques are located in the suburbs. Jarcy Boutique at via Acueducto No. 1618 is particularly good and different. Women can make a relaxing day of it here. A beauty salon, a clothing boutique, a restaurant, and an excellent section of handicrafts are all under one roof in what was once a suburban private home.
The tiny town of San Pedro de Tiaquepaque and Tonala are pure paradise. Market days in Tonala, smaller and more typical of the two, are Thursdays and Sundays. Street vendors join shop owners in offering wonderful merchandise. Serious buyers return to shop in the stores they like best -- such as Sermel, Jimarquin, Galeria Bernabe and La Burra Rosa -- on other less crowded days.
Tiaquepaque was a tiny center for glassblowers and artisans until a few years ago when charming shops and boutiques began to spring up along the narrow streets. Today, the town has undergone major renovations that have turned the main parts of town into a pedestrian mall. Some of the best shops are Antigua de Mexico, Bazar Hecht and El Palomar for decorative items; El Aguila Descalza for clothes with lots of Mexican flavor; and Sergio Bustamante for sculptures. The small ceramic museum is worth a look. Husbands who are non-shoppers can have a beer and listen to mariachis under the arches around the main square.
Store hours are generally 10:00 a.m. - 1:00 p.m. and 4:00 p.m. - 7:00 p.m.
.-.-.-.DINING
Guadalajara dining pleasures are definitely Big City. Just about every kind of restaurant that you can imagine is available, and choosing the ones you'll try is part of the delicious fun. Many restaurants are located in converted private homes, so atmospheres tend to be comfortable and cozy. International ethnic restaurants abound, so if you crave any cuisine from Chinese to German, you can find it. As lunch is the main meal of the day, most places are open for lunch and dinner. If you want to observe the local scene along with your meal, breakfast between 10:00 and 11:00 a.m., lunch between 3:00 and 5:00, and dine between 9:00 and 11:00 p.m.
Businessmen breakfast in the coffee shops of Camino Real, Hyatt Regency and the Fiesta Americana Hotels, or at Sanborn's. Socialites breakfast at Oui in Plaza Vallarta around 11:00 a.m.
Where you lunch may depend on your day's schedule. If you're shopping in Tiaquepaque,
9-
lunch in the garden and listen to mariachis at Cazadores or go to cozy No Name (Sin Nombre) Restaurant on Calle Madero 80 or to Restaurante de Refugio. If you're in the downtown area, go to Hacienda de la Flor for fine Mexican food or continental cuisine, or go to Suehiro or Isao for Japanese food, the latest local rage.
If you're ready and raring to get the party started, try Guadalajara Grill, a lively "Carlos 'n Charlie's" where the band strikes up at 3:00 p.m. and again at 10:00 p.m. Brazz Campestre has plenty of Mexican flavor and mariachis. Caporales has a Mexican show daily at 3:00 p.m.
Lingering over dinner is pure pleasure. If you like refined dining in subdued surroundings, try La Fuente where dinner is accompanied by soft piano music. For pure romance, enjoy dinner in camera-ready Rio Viejo, one of the prettiest restaurants in town. The decor is colonial and the antiques are authentic. Chamber music or live harp music may accompany your meal.
.-.-.-.-.ENTERTAINMENT
Symphonies, concerts, operas, Folkloric Ballet and an English language theatre are just part of Guadalajara's many cultural attractions. Many performances take place at the world-famous Degollado Theatre and in Cabanas Cultural Center, a restored 18th century orphanage.
During October, artists and musicians come from throughout the world to perform in the popular "Fiestas de Octubre", a month-long cultural celebration.
Mexican fiestas take place at major hotels year 'round. El Tapatio stages a particularly good one, complete with small "bullfights" at their country bullring on Sundays.
.-.-.-.-.EXCURSIONS
A city tour will help you get oriented. Day trips to Lake Chapala, the largest lake in Mexico, and the artisans' center of Ajijic are most popular. They pass by communities where many retired Americans reside. A trip to the town of Tequila to see how the heady national drink is made is also fun. Those who really like to explore can visit the colonial town of Zapopan, the rushing waterfall at Oblatos Canyon and the archaeological ruins at Ixtepete, which are being restored.
.-.-.-.-.-INSIDE INFO:
Climate: Guadalajara has one of the best climates in the world. Average year 'round temperature is 80 F and you can count on mild spring like weather -- the kind that is perfect for golf and tennis -- all year long. Nights are comfortably cool because of the altitude. Bring a light shawl or jacket. During the rainy season, June-September, showers are short but you might want to pack a collapsible umbrella to avoid getting caught.
What to wear: A neat, well put together look is suitable at all hours. Summer city clothes will take you day into night. Very few restaurants require a jacket and tie. Bring bathing suits and
10-
clothes for your favorite sports.
Current: Electrical current is the same as in the U.S.
Prime times: Banks are open weekdays from 10:00 a.m. - 1:30 p.m. They are the best places to change money. Avoid the first and the fifteenth of the month -- payday!
Calling home: You can save 40-50% by calling collect. Hotels also charge for placing calls. Pay phones take 20 centavos or a new one peso coin for three minutes.
Taxes and tipping: Customary tip to waiters is 15%. Porters get 60-100 pesos per bag. Taxi drivers don't expect tips unless you hire them by the hour.
Don't forget: Chances are you'll be doing a lot of walking and that some of it will be on cobblestone streets, so pack comfortable shoes. A calculator will help you bargain better and a sturdy change purse will help you carry heavy Mexican coins.
Numbers to know: American Consulate 25-29-28; State Tourism Department 13-11-96 and 14-01-56.
Don't miss: Happy hour at one of the leading hotels; a visit to the Regional Museum and to Tiaquepaque; seeing the Orozco murals at Hospicio Cabanas Cultural Center; shopping on a market day in Tonala; a stroll around the Plaza de Armas; and look at the topiary animal "Zoo" at Plaza de la Bandera.
John Howells and Don Merwin, authors of Choose Mexico, How to Retire on $800 a Month
There are few places in Mexico where North Americans have been as happy as in San Miguel de Allende. A colonial city just under four hours' drive or bus ride from Mexico City, it draws both visitors and residents from all over the world. What many of them share is an interest in the arts. They are attracted both by the handsomeness of the town and its natural setting, and by its several excellent art schools.
The 6,300-foot altitude produces a climate that is comfortable year-round, if you don't mind winter evenings chilly enough for a wood fire and summer afternoons warm enough to make swimming pool owners especially popular. San Miguel owes much of its attractiveness to three events in its history. The first was the depletion of the silver mines in Guanajuato, which rendered San Miguel obsolete as a way station enroute to Mexico City and left it a backwater. Its fine colonial architecture was not demolished, consequently, to make way for the progress that afflicted many other Mexican towns.
The second was the arrival in 1938 of an American, Sterling Dickinson, who founded the art school that became the world-renowned Instituto Allende, which continues to draw outstanding artists and craftspeople from all over Mexico, the United States, Europe and Asia.
The third event contributing to San Miguel's unique flavor was the promulgation by the Mexican government of a law designating the entire town as a national monument. Any
11-
development or construction that would change San Miguel's character or appearance must have express permission. Some grumble about the narrow streets, paved with what must be the world's sharpest and most irregular cobblestones. About one out of every 20 residents of San Miguel is an American or other foreigner. That ratio is sufficient to support an active English-speaking social and cultural life, but not large enough to make San Miguel a little bit of the US in Mexico. There is no American enclave where foreigners are concentrated or huddled, and when North Americans there say that what they like best about Mexico is the people, they mean their Mexican neighbors.
Recreational Opportunities
San Miguel has remarkably diverse opportunities for recreation, ranging from golf, tennis and riding, to classes in yoga and dance, lecture series, amateur string quartets, bird watching with the Audubon Society, a duplicate bridge club, amateur theatrical groups, an American Legion post and a garden club.
Spanish is taught at the Instituto Allende, the Academia Hispano Americana and several smaller and more informal schools. Depending on the school, these programs range from a couple of hours a day to more than forty hours a week. There are students of all ages, and among other benefits, classes, whether in language or the arts, provide excellent opportunities for meeting people.
Within a short drive from San Miguel, there are several hot spring resorts open to the public where you can swim or just soak contentedly in the naturally heated water.We are not aware of any claims of curative powers, but we can testify to their calming effect on the spirit.
>>>>>Good Restaurants
Because San Miguel is a magnet for North Americans and other foreigners, it is amply endowed with good restaurants with cuisines and ambiance that range from vegetarian health to continental elegance. Italian, French, Argentinean and Spanish food are all represented, as is even the hamburger, but we are happy to report that the golden arches have not yet appeared. Specialty food stores feature items as exotic as Dutch and Danish cheeses, German sausages, Arab pita bread and the international bagel. Although these delicacies may not be as economical as tortillas and frijoles, they are quite reasonable by US standards.
San Miguel has so many supermarkets, drugstores, meat and vegetable markets, as well as a large indoor municipal market with its surrounding outdoor stalls, that each resident you consult is likely to give different advice about which is most reliable and most economical. Actually, quality, selections and prices tend to be similar. When you have been in San Miguel a while and acquire Mexican friends, they can tell you the best places to buy such national specialties as carnitas, chicharones and mole.
>>>>>Housing, Food and Transportation
Because San Miguel attracts the wealthy as well as the talented from all over the world, it is entirely possible to find a house that sells for $500,000 or rents for $2,000 a month. Fortunately, residents report that you can still find two-bedroom apartments with rents beginning
12-
at about $200 unfurnished. Three hundred dollars a month is a good rental to figure on for a conveniently located and attractively furnished apartment. A house is likely to rent for a little more.
The monthly salary of a maid who works eight hours a day, six days a week, is reported to be about $120 a month. Gardeners (who often serve as general handymen) are paid about 85 cents an hour. Few couples report spending more than $250 a month for all their meals including those in restaurants, some of which can only be described as posh. It is easy to spend $20 for a meal in the town's most luxurious eating places, but $9 is more typical for a charming, moderate restaurant, and there are plenty of places you would not hesitate to eat in where a full meal can be under $4. Much entertainment and recreation is free, and a bus trip to Mexico City, more than 160 miles away, costs about $5. San Miguel qualifies as a town where a comfortable life is possible within the $800 range.
>>>>>Weather and Altitude
The climate is San Miguel is one of the best in Mexico. January temperature averages a high of 75 and low 48. April and July range from 89 to a low of 72. This translates into cool nights, particularly in winter and comfortably warm days most of the year The only really hot days usually come in May and June and even then the temperature seldom gets above the low nineties. San Miguel is on the verge of being in the tierra fria. You commonly find fireplaces in the homes and see woodcutters driving burros through town with firewood for sale. The air in the high altitudes is thin and has little humidity (a great cure for some allergies).
>>>>>MORE SAN MIGUEL DE ALLENDE
Spanish and Other Lessons
The Instituto Allende offers Spanish and arts and crafts lessons all year. The 'Total Impact Spanish' is planned especially for those who want to learn Spanish as quickly as possible. Instruction is on a one-to-one basis from one to six hours daily, Monday through Friday, with classes starting every Monday. Tuition for three hours a day for four weeks is $540. and six hours a day for four weeks is $945. Conversational Spanish lessons with an emphasis on speaking, is fifty minutes daily, Monday through Friday, with small classes limited to ten people. Beginning, intermediate and advanced level tuition is $105. for four weeks. Arts and craft lessons include traditional Mexican weaving, fundamentals of drawing and painting, history of Mexico, mural painting, silverwork, history of Mexican art and more. Prices range from $125 to $210 per class for four weeks. Contact the Instituto at 011-52-465-20190 or write to MTA for application and class listings.
>>>>>Hotels and other Accommodations
Rates for hotels are set by the Department of Tourism and San Miguel has a wide choice of first class hotels and more modest but comfortable ones, all with private bath. the 10% IVA tax is included in the listed prices.
Villa Jacaranda is a splendid old colonial mansion, with cascading flowers, high-ceiling
13-
rooms with fireplaces just a few blocks from the central plaza. Each room has cable television and protected parking. Aldama #53. Ph 011-52-465- 2-10-15.Single $81, double $96.
Villa Mirasol at Pila Seca #35, has private patios with each room, all with television, tiled bathrooms and decorated in bright Mexican colors. Ph 011-52-465-2-15-64. Single/double $45.
One and two bedroom apartments completely furnished are available at the Villa Estrella by the day, week or monthly. Maid and telephone and garden patio. Call 011-52-465-2-49-14.
A limited number of Mexican homes take in guests. Some have private baths, but most share bath facilities. Private rooms run approximately $25 per day per person including meals. Check with the Insituto for availability.
RV Parks
Don Ramos is located three miles north on the road to Delores Hidalgo with ten RV spaces, water, electric and sewer hookups. Write to General Delivery, San Miguel de Allende. La Siesta Motel and RV Park is a large park south of town on Hwy 51 with full hookups, laundry, showers and pool. Write to Box 72, San Miguel de Allende.
Best Places to Dine
Every night of the week, Mama Mia serves a menu filled with mouth-watering Italian favorites like Chicken Parmesan or Octopus Venetian. For the locals and tourists alike, Mama Mia also dishes up other favorites. Pizza is a speciality, and can be enjoyed on the lantern-lit patio while listening to folkloric Peruvian music. A Salsa bar is across the way and live bands will get you on your feet and dancing. At Umaran #8.
When you're looking for a casual atmosphere, an elegant meal and a good bottle of wine, just like you had in Southern California, head to La Venimia at Hidalgo #12. From the tossed-at-your-table Caesar salad to the grilled tuna to vegetables with fresh herbs, La Vendimia expertly prepares a continental menu with a California touch and now offers a new light lunch menu. Relax to the live flamenco guitarist while you contemplate dinner. Fresh fish is a specialty, but don't overlook the perfectly cooked, beef-like-you-never-had-it-in-Mexico-before Chateaubriand. Visitors rave about and return for the warm scallop salad in soy dressing. A bottle of wine from La Venimia's extensive and affordable wine list completes your meal. Open daily 12-10 pm.
>>>>>Culture
The government's Cultural Center in San Miguel is housed at Bellas Artes, Hernandez Macias #75. This fabulous 18th century building is a former cloister; its stone floors once trod by nuns. The gorgeous patio is now surrounded by galleries, classrooms, a cafe and a theatre that houses concerts, dramas and a weekly literary forum. The Center is also known for its fine musical productions, its well-attended winter festival and two internationally acclaimed music festivals.
Each summer, "El Nigromante" at Bellas Artes is host to the acclaimed International Chamber Music Festival. The 16th annual two week festival begins August 6. Almost every night
14-
until August 21, the theatre in Bellas Artes and the Angela Peralta Theatre will be filled with the sounds of the Borodin Trio, Lark Quartet, Cuarteto Latinoamerican, and the American String Quartet. Tickets are available at El Colibir and Bellas Artes.
*General Electric has invested about 1 billion dollars in Mexico, third in importance of their worldwide operations, behind China and India. This year they will invest an additional 100 million
dollars.
*Trade between Venezuela and Mexico will be about 1 billion dollars next year.
*Foreign investment in Mexico was 15.61 billion dollars last year. By August of 1994, 8.97 billion dollars had been invested.
*Sanborn's House of Tiles is closed for remodeling. There was a fire that started in the kitchen.
*The ports of Veracruz and Altamira (near Tampico) will be completely privatized by the end of the year, according to SCT. They handle 80% of all sea cargo to Mexico.
*PEMEX Exploration and Production will invest more than 705 million dollars to develop drilling sites in Tabasco, Chiapas and Veracruz. They expect to pump more than 588,000 barrels a day from eight new wells.
>>>>>ECONOMY
*The Peso was trading at 5.35 to the dollar as of September 10, 1995; gasoline prices: unleaded, N$1.28 pesos ($1.45 a gallon); diesel, N$1.03 pesos ($1.16 a gallon). As you know, gas prices go up a few pesos a month, just slightly more than the peso devalues against the dollar.
>>>>>MORE MONEY MATTERS
Visa , Mastercard are accepted darn near everywhere. Discover is not accepted anywhere. American Express , Diner's Club and Carte Blanche are accepted only at the finer establishments. ATM's can give you money on your debit card, but they are sometimes quirky, so have some cash available. You can get cash advances on the Visa and Mastercard at some ATM's, though I've never done it. Other, more credit-worthy people have, though. There are three kinds of pesos floating around now, the nuevo (new) pesos, old pesos (just called pesos) and new, new pesos. The newest ones are about 20% smaller in size than the other two and have new anti-counterfeiting schemes on them. Don't worry about it. They all spend equally well and are
plainly marked so you shouldn't get confused.
>>>>>MEXICO ON THE MOVE
The Reynosa-Monterrey toll road is finally complete. Cost is about $27 one way. When the Laredo toll road owners heard that theirs was $3 cheaper, they raised the rate for
15-
Laredo-Monterrey road! I drove the free roads from Laredo and McAllen recently. They are fine.
Unless you are in a hurry, save your pesos.
The Monterrey-Saltillo toll road is complete. It costs about $12 for a car. We strongly recommend this one over the free road. You can now travel from McAllen to Saltillo in about 3 hours (versus 5 on the old roads), if you are willing to pay about $36.
Regarding toll road prices: They change and sometimes even go down (toll rates are 33% cheaper in 1995). Now that new financing can be secured, the thrust is to lower the tolls to increase ridership.
The toll road between Mexico City and Toluca is a dandy, as is the leg from Toluca to Morelia. Morelia to Guadalajara is not yet complete, but is expected to be by December. I drove part of it
until I got run off by a pair of bulldozers, who didn't like my Dodge pickup using their turf. We still like highway #15 for its scenic beauty. Along the way is Avandaro, a delightful resort town, Angangueo, where the butterflies roost in winter, Patzcuaro, Uruapan, Paracutan and other jewels. Why miss 'em?
Hwy #15 on the west coast is in terrific shape. There's a new toll road between Tapachula and Arriaga, with no choice but to take it, according to Guatemala Norm, of Pathfinder Adventure-tours in McAllen, TX. This road will eventually go all the way to Veracruz. The good news is that, at present, they are not collecting the toll, although the toll booths are manned.
If you are an experienced Mexico driver, many of the free roads are in as good a shape as they ever were. I personally like the old roads as they go by more scenic places and I like to pass big
trucks, but I'm probably in the minority.
DO SOMETHING NICE DEPT.
Father Luis Verplancken is famous in the Baranca del Cobre (Copper Canyon) area for his tireless work with the Tarahumara people. He has changed the face of an entire civilization by bringing fresh water to Creel and teaching modern agriculture techniques. With generous help he's built a clinic and seventy bed children's hospital for the Tarahumara in Creel. If you'd like to help send
16-
donations to: The Tarahumara Children's Hospital Fund, POB 24039, New Orleans, LA 70184-4039.
>>>>>LITTLE KNOWN PLACES & FACTS
16-
El Ocotal National Forest is just north of Mexico City and is a fantastic place to get into the high piney woods with old-growth trees and relax. There are several log cabins, and rooms around a
lake, with separate jacuzzis and steam baths and a convention center as well as a playground for kids.
A visit to Paracutan, just north of Uruapan, is well worth the four hour investment in time. You'll ride horses (or walk) over crazily twisted lava beds, to an old church that was covered by the
eruption. You'll stand on the roof of the church and look down on the steeple. Quite a sight. It's one of Mike's Dozen places.
Hwy #57 (the main north south route between Mexico City and Laredo) used to be Hwy #75. It's name was changed to commemorate the year of its completion (1957). For awhile, both highway numbers were on signs, confusing some. The more things change, the more they stay the same. Toll Hwy #15 and Hwy #90 run together near Guadalajara now and you'll see both numbers on signs.
Things Mexico doesn't have: Trial by jury, television evangelists, tickets for jay-walking, a Vice-President, widespread drug addiction (except for nicotine and alcohol), the death penalty, newsletters about retirement in the United States and Canada, gun shops with Saturday night specials, hassles over female reporters in male locker rooms, singles newspapers, dating services.
Mexico doesn't have: Bank failures (Savings and Loan failures are deftly avoided by not having S & L's), telephone soliciting, high property taxes, inheritance tax, State lotteries (but one National lottery for charity), vanity license plates, tornadoes, Easter baskets (or eggs or bunnies), Disneyland.
Mexico doesn't have: A driver who obeys all the traffic laws all the time. We think she's out there somewhere, but we haven't seen her yet. We're sure it's not a man because no Mexican male would be such a wimp...Courteous, careful, neatly uniformed non-polluting city buses. The worst city buses we've seen are in Nuevo Laredo; the best in Zacatecas.
Mexico doesn't have: Real cheddar cheese, real Coney Island hot dogs, kidney beans, real link sausage (and most Mexican restaurants never heard of poached eggs); the 6 o'clock news, or 5 or 7 -- the major news program is at 10:30 p.m., some lesser ones at 8 and 9; nudist colonies -- we've had our eyes peeled, but no luck yes; nationwide fund-raising drives, except for Red Cross (most fund raising is by raffles, "rifas").
Mexico doesn't have: Malpractice suits (one reason medical care cost less), lawsuits over everything and nothing, wars, 75 vehicle highway crashes (not yet, anyway), attacks on abortion
clinics, skinheads, enforcement of child labor laws (the laws exist, but millions of kids are in the work force).
Excerpt from AIM, a publication on retirement in Mexico. Annual subscription $16 US. Write to Apartado Postal 31.70, Guadalajara 45050, Jalisco, Mexico
^^^ Guadalajara, Jalisco celebrates its annual Fiestas de Octubre. October 4: St. Francis' Day. All Mexico honors the Franciscan Order. Dances, music, fireworks, especially in Pachuca, Uruapan, and Puebla.
OCTOBER 12 Race Day (Dia de la Raza) or our COLUMBUS DAY National holiday. A religious festival is observed at Zapopan, JAL.
=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=******************************************************************************The Mexico Travel Monthly Report is the only monthly document available for the informed traveler. The report brings you information and updates on a wide variety of subjects including trip planning, retirement, sportfishing, entry requirements, city guides, cost of living, and trip planning. Contributers are well known authors Carl Franz (The People's Guide To Mexico), "Mexico" Mike Nelson, Sanborn's travel writer, award-winning travel writers Paula McDonald and Moon Publishing writers Joe Cummings, Chicki Mallen and Bruce Whipperman.
The Mexico Travel Monthly Report is published by Mexico Travel Associates, 4824 W. Mountain View Dr. #5, San Diego, Ca. 92116. Special subscription price to AOL members: Monthly Electronic Report $14.00 (one year), Printed Report $20.00, save $15.00 off regular subscripion price (one year). For electronic report, please include e-mail address.
Order #1 The People's Guide To Mexico, by Carl Franz, edited by Lorena Havens. 10th edition of one of the most popular books on Mexico. Living, traveling and taking things as they come, Carl Franz show you how to handle just about every situation you may run into with wit, warmth and wisdom. "The best guide book to adventure in the whole world"-Harpers $18.95, plus $2.50 shipping, total $21.45 U.S.
Order #2 Choose Mexico, by John Howells and Don Merwin, 4th edition. Authors tell you how to live well on $800 a month. Covers housing, finances, health, recreation and best places for seasonal or retirement living. 252 pages, maps, illustrations. $11.95, plus $2.00 shipping, total $13.95 U.S.
Order #3 Pacific Mexico Handbook by Bruce Whipperman, published by Moon Publications. Pacific Mexico's mile-by-mile directions for travelers by car, RV, bus, and train, get you along the main highways and the hidden byways, not just to the major destinations, but to deserted beaches where it's just you, the surf and the palms. $15.95 plus $2.50 shipping, total $18.45 US
Order #4 Baja Handbook by Joe Cummings, published by Moon Publications. 2nd. edition. Join author in tracing 16th-century trails through Spanish colonial missions, secluded palm canyons,
18-
painted caves and deserted beaches. Maps, illustrations. $15.95 plus $2.50 shipping, total $18.45 US.
Order #5 Northern Mexico Handbook-The Sea of Cortes To The Gulf of Mexico, by Joe Cummings, published by Moon Publications. With Northern Mexico Handbook, you'll relax on white-sand beaches, tropical lagoons, and islands off Sonora, Sinaloa, and Tamaulips; hike the majestic cloud forests of the Sierra Madre Oriental; journey through largely undiscovered river canyons in Durango and Chihuahua; ride the spectacular "Copper Canyon" train across the Sierra Madre. $16.95 plus $2.50 shipping, total $19.95 US.
Order #6 The Gringo's Investment Guide by Ginger Combs-Ramarez. If you're thinking of investing in property in Mexico, she tells you how to buy a house or other property, how to get along with Mexican nationals who work for you, your rights and responsibilities. It's written in plain English for those of us who cannot understand legalese. $24.95 plus $2.50 shipping, total $27.45 US.
Order #7 Mexico Living and Travel by Jean and John Bryant. Authors have lived in Mexico for many years and share their experiences to help you avoid costly pitfalls in your adventure to a foreign country. Includes chapters about cities and coastal areas that are most popular iwth North Americans and describes the always poppular Guadalajara/Lake Chapala area. $29.95 postage included.
Order # 8 Spanish Lingo for the Savvy Gringo by Elizabeth Reid. The fast, easy, fun way to learn Spanish! An issustrated guide to the language and customs. 192 pages. $12.95 plus $2.00 shipping, total $14.95 US
Order #9 Yucatan Peninsual Handbook by Chicki Mallen. Published by Moon Publications. Award-winning travel writer Chicki Mallen guides you through the states of Tabasco, Campeche, Quintana Roo, and Yucatan. From the caves of Balankanche and the magnificent ruins of Palenque to the upscale nightspots of Cancun and Cozumel, this book offers travelers a rare blend of practical information and cultural subtleties. Features sections on remote under-water wonderlands for swimming, snorkeling, scuba, sportfishing, and other outdoor experiences plus an exhaustive guide to the material remains of ancient cities and temple complexes such as Tulum, Chichen itza, Uxmal and Palenque. Recommendations on accomodations, from free beach camping to luxury, all-inclusive resorts. $15.95 plus $2.50 shipping, total $18.45 US
Order #10 Sanborn's Mexico Travelogs by Sanborn's, Inc. Popular mile-by-mile roadlogs that take you down the toll roads and out-of-the way roads written by "Mexico" Mike Nelson.
19-
Includes maps, RV campsites, hotels, restaurants and the chicken in the road. Drivers into Mexico swear by these guides.
10A Ruta Maya $14.95, $2.00 shipping, total $16.95
10B Baja California $15.95, $2.00 shipping, total $17.95
10C West Coast $14.95, $2.00 shipping, total $16.95
10D Monterrey-Saltillo $15.95, $2.00 shipping, total $17.95
10E RV Guide $5.95, $2.00 shipping, Total $7.95
Order 11 Mexico From The Driver's Seat by "Mexico" Mike Nelson. If you want to see off-the-beaten track Mexico from the convenience of your armchair, let "Mexico" Mike take you. His stories and pictures will entertain you and make great gifts for your friends. Personally autographed copies of his book Mexico From the Driver's Seat, are $8.95 plus $2.00 shipping, total $10.95.
.-.-.-.-.-.To order from the bookshelf, send check or money order with the included form to: Mexico Travel Associates, 4824 W. Mountain View Dr. #5, San Diego, CA 92116. For orders outside US, add $3.00 postage to total price. Allow 3-4 weeks for delivery.
******CITY GUIDES
Primarily for the visitor who flys into Mexico and wants detailed information on a particular city; where-to-go; lodging from budget to five-star; interesting sights to see, how-to-get there, best time of year, popular restaurants, museums and more. Text only. Electronic guides per city: $5.00, print $6.50 (snail mail). Cities include: Oaxaca, Cancun, Puerto Vallarta, Mazatlan, Cabo San Lucas, Colonial Cities, Copper Canyon, Mexico City, Acapulco, Huatulco, Vera Cruz, Ixtapa-Zihuatanejo.
